Keltic Lodge-the Arduaine restaurant — Jordan Musyscyn
Jordan Musyscyn
Chéticamp & Margaree: July 27 – August 2, 2026
The Festival de l'Escaouette in Chéticamp brings Acadian music and community spirit to the heart of Chéticamp this week, while acclaimed Scottish smallpipe player Brìghde Chaimbeul at the ICCA Arts Centre delivers a Tuesday evening performance that's not to be missed.
🎵 Live this week
ICCA Arts Centre — Brìghde Chaimbeul -Scottish smallpipe player
Brìghde Chaimbeul (pronounced "Breech-uh Campbell") is a master of the Scottish smallpipes from the Isle of Skye, a native Gaelic speaker who won the BBC Radio 2 Young Folk Award at age seventeen. Her 2019 debut album, The Reeling, earned five-star reviews and a BBC Radio 2 Horizon Award for its fresh reading of traditional Gaelic tunes, drawing on influences from Cape Breton, Eastern Europe, and Ireland. Her performances emphasise the rich textural drones of the smallpipes, creating a mesmerising, trance-like atmosphere.
Keltic Lodge-the Arduaine restaurant — Darrell Keigan
Darrell Keigan is a Cape Breton singer whose repertoire spans local songs and stories, well-loved Irish and Scottish classics, and folk music, all performed with a keen interest in history. His warm, engaging style makes every show feel like a gathering of old friends, whether he is playing to a packed hall or an intimate setting.
Front Porch farm — Duane Andrews
Duane Andrews is a Juno Award-winning guitarist and composer from Carbonear, Newfoundland, celebrated for blending traditional Newfoundland folk music with the swing jazz of Django Reinhardt. A Juno Award-winning composer, arranger, producer, and globetrotting performer , he has toured internationally and recorded acclaimed albums including the multiple award-winning Crocus and collaborations with Cape Breton master fiddler Dwayne Côté. Audiences at Front Porch Farm can expect an inventive, genre-crossing guitar performance rooted in Atlantic Canadian tradition.
Festival de l’Escaouette in Chéticamp
An annual Acadian summer festival in Chéticamp featuring traditional and contemporary music, family activities, cultural events, and kitchen parties. The festival celebrates Acadian culture and brings together locals and visitors along the Cabot Trail.
Le Thé à Mémère — An Acadian High Tea Experience – Festival de L’Escaouette
A high tea featuring homemade Acadian sweets and light traditional treats, with live music from local musicians. The event celebrates Acadian hospitality and cooking traditions.
Keltic Lodge-the Arduaine restaurant — Darrell Keigan
Darrell Keigan is a Cape Breton singer whose repertoire spans local songs and stories, well-loved Irish and Scottish classics, and folk music, all performed with a keen interest in history. His warm, engaging style makes every show feel like a gathering of old friends, whether he is playing to a packed hall or an intimate setting.
📍 Suggested itinerary
Start the week with a morning hike before the summer heat sets in. The Acadian Trail rises steeply above Chéticamp to deliver a sweeping panorama of the Acadian coastline — well worth the climb. Back in town, L'abri Café, Restaurant and Bar is the ideal spot to recover with a specialty coffee and fresh-baked goods before the afternoon stretches out. That evening, head to the Arduaine Restaurant at Keltic Lodge for Jordan Musyscyn at 7:00 p.m.
Tuesday is a full day. In the morning, follow the MacIntosh Brook Trail through towering hardwoods to its small waterfall — the flat, streamside path makes it an easy and rewarding walk for all fitness levels. Refuel at Le Gabriel Restaurant & Lounge in Chéticamp, where fresh seafood and traditional Acadian dishes share the menu with homemade desserts. The evening belongs to Brìghde Chaimbeul at the ICCA Arts Centre — the Scottish smallpipe player performs at 6:30 p.m. for $20 in advance, followed by Darrell Keigan at Keltic Lodge at 7:00 p.m. for those who want to extend the night.
Wednesday is a good day to venture into the backcountry. The Fishing Cove Trail descends to a remote wilderness beach — the only backcountry campsite in the national park — and rewards those who make the trek with genuine solitude. Closer to Pleasant Bay, Duane Andrews plays Front Porch Farm at 6:00 p.m., and the Rusty Anchor Restaurant in Pleasant Bay offers fresh lobster rolls and fish and chips with stunning Cabot Trail views for a well-earned dinner.
Thursday is the heart of the week. The Festival de l'Escaouette brings Acadian music, culture, and community together at the Chéticamp Visitor Information Centre. That afternoon, the Le Thé à Mémère — An Acadian High Tea Experience at the Centre de la Mi-Carême offers a rare and warm glimpse into traditional Acadian hospitality, with homemade sweets, light treats, and live music. Cap the evening with a stop at Aucoin Bakery, a three-generation Acadian institution known for meat pies and crusty bread, before Darrell Keigan closes out the festival day at Keltic Lodge at 7:00 p.m. Before leaving the area, take a short detour to the Enragée Point Lighthouse on Chéticamp Island — its octagonal silhouette against the harbour entrance is one of the quieter photographic rewards along this stretch of coast.
🥾 Worth the drive
Acadian Trail
Starting right behind the Cheticamp Visitor Centre, the Acadian Trail loops up the canyon wall through mature maple and birch forest, gaining roughly 360 metres before levelling out at a series of viewpoints over the village, harbour, and Cheticamp Island. The climb is sustained and rocky in places; trekking poles help on the descent. Interpretive panels along the route highlight the Acadian heritage of the surrounding communities. Allow three to four hours and carry water—there is no reliable source on the trail.
What you'll see
- A series of viewpoints overlooking Cheticamp village, the harbour, and Cheticamp Island with the Enragée Point Lighthouse just visible.
- Mature hardwood forest — yellow birch and sugar maple, with brilliant fall colour.
- Interpretive panels on Acadian heritage of the surrounding villages.
- Bald eagles wheeling overhead and the occasional whale offshore.
- A view down to the church steeple in Cheticamp — the postcard shot of the village.
On the trail
- 8.4 km loop with about 360 metres of climb.
- Sustained ascent on the way up; gentler grade on the descent.
- Surface is packed dirt with rocks and exposed roots; can be slick when wet.
- Trail is well-signed and well-maintained.
- Allow three to four hours.
What to bring
- Real hiking shoes or boots.
- Trekking poles for the descent — your knees will thank you.
- At least 1.5 litres of water; no reliable source on the trail.
- A light wind layer for the open viewpoints.
- Bug spray in early summer.
- A camera for the village views.
Park & access
- Trailhead is right behind the Cheticamp Visitor Centre.
- Parks Canada day pass required.
- Flush toilets and water at the visitor centre.
- Open year-round, though winter is unmaintained.
Combine it with
- A meal in Cheticamp village — chowder, lobster rolls, and the famous Acadian meat pies.
- Les Trois Pignons cultural centre in Cheticamp.
- Enragée Point Lighthouse on Cheticamp Island.
Fishing Cove Trail
Fishing Cove drops nearly 335 metres over eight kilometres to a hidden cove that was once home to a small Scottish fishing settlement. The trail is steep in spots but well graded, weaving through hardwood and conifer stands before delivering hikers to a grassy meadow above a wild Gulf of St. Lawrence beach. Eight backcountry tent sites sit just back from the shore—reservations are required. Day-trippers should plan a full day for the return climb. Carry plenty of water and watch for moose along the upper section.
What you'll see
- A grassy meadow on a hidden cove with a wild Gulf shoreline at its mouth.
- The foundations of an abandoned Scottish fishing settlement.
- Dense hardwood and conifer forest along the descent, with brilliant fall colour.
- Moose along the upper trail at dusk and dawn — keep your distance.
- Bald eagles, peregrines, and the occasional whale offshore.
- Eight Parks Canada backcountry tent sites tucked into the meadow above the beach.
On the trail
- About 16 km round trip via the longer route, or 12 km via the steeper direct route.
- About 335 metres of climb on the return — the back-out is the hard part.
- Well-graded and well-marked, but steep in places.
- Allow at least six hours for the round trip; longer if you swim or have lunch.
- Watch for moose; do not approach.
What to bring
- Real hiking boots and trekking poles.
- Plenty of water — at least three litres per person; the only safe source is the brook at the cove (and even that needs filtering).
- A bear-bag system if you camp; food storage is your responsibility.
- A swim suit and quick-dry towel — the cove begs for a dip.
- Bug spray and a light layer for the breezy meadow.
- A reservation through the Parks Canada system if you plan to camp.
Park & access
- Two trailheads on the Cabot Trail north of Pleasant Bay; both signed.
- Parks Canada day pass required for hiking; backcountry permit additional for camping.
- Vault toilets at the trailheads and at the cove.
- Open seasonally — typically late spring through mid-autumn.
Combine it with
- A whale-watching boat from Pleasant Bay before or after.
- The Whale Interpretive Centre in Pleasant Bay.
- The Skyline Trail for a different highlands experience the next day.
MacIntosh Brook Trail
MacIntosh Brook is a gentle 1.7-kilometre return walk along a clear stream beneath towering yellow birch and sugar maple to a modest cascade at the trail's end. It is a great wet-weather option since the canopy keeps much of the rain off. Roots and rocks make the footing uneven; sturdy shoes recommended.
What you'll see
- A clear, fast-running stream tumbling through hardwood forest.
- Towering yellow birch and sugar maple, some impressively old.
- A small but lovely cascade at the trail's end, perfect for a quiet pause.
- Wood thrushes, hermit thrushes, and other forest songbirds in summer.
- Brilliant fall colour from late September.
On the trail
- 1.7 km return on packed dirt with roots and small rock crossings.
- Very modest elevation change.
- Two small bridges and a few stepping-stone crossings.
- Well-signed and easy to follow.
What to bring
- Sturdy walking shoes; the roots make sneakers slick when wet.
- Bug spray in early summer.
- A light rain layer — the canopy is good but not perfect.
- Water and a snack.
Park & access
- Trailhead lot is on the Cabot Trail just south of the Lone Shieling, in the Grande Anse Valley.
- Parks Canada day pass required.
- Vault toilets at the trailhead.
- Open year-round, though winter access is unmaintained.
Combine it with
- Lone Shieling Trail just up the road for a second short walk.
- Beulach Ban Falls a short drive north.
- A meal in Pleasant Bay before or after.
Enragée Point Lighthouse
Enragée Point Lighthouse stands on the western tip of Cheticamp Island, an octagonal wooden tower painted bright white. A gravel road and short walk lead out to the point, with sweeping views back to the Cheticamp village waterfront and west to the open Gulf. Wind here is often fierce, as the name (French for "enraged") suggests.
What to see
- A handsome octagonal wooden lighthouse, painted bright white, in a wide-open clifftop setting.
- Long views east back to the Cheticamp church and waterfront, framed by the highlands rising behind.
- Open Gulf horizon to the west — Magdalen Islands visible on the clearest days.
- Pilot whales and fin whales offshore in summer; bald eagles overhead.
- The Cheticamp Island gypsum-cliff coastline running south from the light.
Tips
- Bring a serious wind layer — the name is not a joke.
- Best light is morning for the lighthouse against the headland.
- Stay back from the cliff edges; the rock is undermined in places.
- The access road is gravel and bumpy but passable in any car.
- A great sunset spot when the wind allows you to stand still.
Park & access
- Reached by Cheticamp Island Road off the Cabot Trail just south of Cheticamp village.
- The final approach is a short walk from the parking area.
- Free; year-round access.
- No facilities on site.
Combine it with
- The Acadian Trail above Cheticamp for a longer afternoon hike.
- Les Trois Pignons or the Cheticamp hooked-rug museum for an Acadian cultural stop.
- A seafood meal on the Cheticamp waterfront — chowder and crab cakes are standard.
🍽️ Where to eat & stay
Le Gabriel Restaurant & Lounge
Le Gabriel, with its unique lighthouse entrance, is situated on the Cabot Trail in Cheticamp. Our varied menu includes fresh seafood such as lobster, crab, sole. Experience Acadian culture with traditional dishes, fricot, and paté à la viande. Complete your meal with a selection from our delicious homemade desserts.
Aucoin Bakery
A three-generation Acadian bakery in Chéticamp turning out meat pies, crusty bread, and sweets the way the Aucoin family has always made them. If you're driving the Cabot Trail and want a taste of Acadian home cooking you can eat with your hands, this is the stop.
What to expect
- Small bakery counter, not a sit-down restaurant — most folks grab and go
- Glass cases of pies, turnovers, donuts, and loaves of crusty French bread
- A line out the door on summer mornings; locals on first-name terms with the staff
- Acadian French and English both spoken at the counter
Don't miss
- The pork pies (tourtière-style) — the thing they're known for
- Date squares and butter tarts for the road
- A loaf of crusty bread to pair with a chowder later that night
Good to know
- Cash is appreciated; bring small bills
- Best to arrive early — popular items sell out by mid-afternoon
- Limited parking; the lot fills fast in July and August
- Closed Sundays in shoulder season — call ahead outside summer
Pair it with
- The Skyline Trail, 30 minutes north in Cape Breton Highlands National Park
- Coopérative Artisanale de Chéticamp for hooked rugs and Acadian crafts
- A whale-watching trip with Whale Cruisers from the Chéticamp wharf
L’abri Café, Restaurant and Bar
L’abri café, restaurant and bar is located along the Cabot Trail in Chéticamp, NS. We serve homemade food and fresh baked goods to go with our deliciously brewed lattes, cappuccinos, and coffee! Come check out our patio and our local brews on tap.
Rusty Anchor Restaurant
The Rusty Anchor is Cape Breton’s best kept secret!The halfway point on the Cabot Trail, serving the best lobster roll and fish n chips in the area. Come for the food and stay for the view!
Doryman Pub & Grill
Chéticamp's social hub — Acadian fiddle, hearty pub plates, and a lobster roll that's worth a detour. The Doryman is more than a music venue; it's the room everyone in town ends up at on a Saturday.
What to expect
- A casual pub vibe with a strong music focus
- Mixed crowd of locals, RVers, and Cabot Trail visitors
- Standard pub plates with seafood specials
- Live music multiple days a week in season
Don't miss
- The lobster roll, packed and not stretched with filler
- House chowder and fresh haddock when it's running
- An evening with a fiddler and a Cape Breton beer
Good to know
- Hours expand significantly in summer; call ahead in shoulder season
- Cover charge applies for the ceilidh
- Family-friendly until later in the night
- Parking on the street and nearby lots
Pair it with
- A whale-watching trip from the wharf
- A walk through the Coopérative Artisanale
- Dinner at Restaurant Acadien earlier in the day
From Acadian festival grounds to backcountry beaches, Chéticamp and Margaree pack a remarkable range of experiences into a single summer week. Come for the music, stay for the landscape, and let the warmth of this corner of Cape Breton do the rest.