ICCA Arts Centre — Hermine Ford
This exhibition spans five decades of art by Hermine Ford, a Cape Breton artist. The show is at the ICCA Arts Centre.
Chéticamp & Margaree: What to Do August 10–16, 2026
The Perseids light up the Cabot Trail sky this week, with Star Party at Mkwesaqtuk / Cap-Rouge drawing telescope-gazers to one of the most storied spots in Cape Breton Highlands National Park — and all week long, the ICCA Arts Centre — Hermine Ford exhibition invites visitors inside five decades of Cape Breton artistic vision.
🎵 Live this week
Star Party at Mkwesaqtuk / Cap-Rouge
Stargazing events held during peak Perseids meteor shower dates, featuring telescope viewing and information about constellations and celestial objects visible from this highland location. Events coincide with nights when shooting stars are most frequent.
Star Party at Bog Trail
Nighttime stargazing events held at Bog Trail featuring telescopes and views of the night sky. These sessions are timed with the Perseids meteor shower peak dates for viewing shooting stars.
Kitchen Parties at La Rigouèche in Chéticamp Campground
An evening of Acadian music and stories with Voix-liées at Chéticamp Campground. The informal setting means no stage or pressure, just live music and conversation.
📍 Suggested itinerary
Start the week on Monday by stepping into the ICCA Arts Centre — Hermine Ford exhibition, where painter Hermine Ford's work across five decades reveals the evolving landscape and spirit of Cape Breton through her eyes. The gallery continues through Saturday, so there is no rush — but going early in the week leaves time to return and linger. Afterwards, settle into Chéticamp with a meal at L'abri Café, Restaurant and Bar, where homemade food, fresh-baked goods, and specialty coffee make it the kind of stop that stretches into an hour without apology.
Tuesday and Wednesday are well spent on the trails. The Acadian Trail offers a steep but rewarding climb above Chéticamp with panoramic views of the Acadian coastline — bring water and take it slow. For a gentler outing, the MacIntosh Brook Trail follows a flat streamside path through tall hardwoods to a small waterfall, ideal for families or anyone looking to decompress in the forest. On the way back into town, the Enragée Point Lighthouse on Chéticamp Island is worth a detour — the octagonal lighthouse guards the harbour entrance and rewards a short walk with open water views in every direction.
Wednesday evening belongs to the stars. At 8:30 p.m., the Star Party at Mkwesaqtuk / Cap-Rouge sets up telescopes at the Cap-Rouge Interpretive House during the peak of the Perseids meteor shower. The highland skies here are genuinely dark, and the setting above the Gulf of St. Lawrence adds drama to every streak of light across the dome. Thursday brings a second chance for stargazers with the Star Party at Bog Trail, beginning at 8:00 p.m. — arriving a little before dark to settle in is well worth it.
Thursday night rounds out beautifully with the Kitchen Parties at La Rigouèche in Chéticamp Campground, where Voix-liées leads traditional Acadian songs and stories at the campground's La Rigouèche space starting at 9:30 p.m. It is an unhurried, community-rooted evening that captures exactly what makes this corner of Cape Breton distinct. Fuel up beforehand at Le Gabriel Restaurant & Lounge, where fresh seafood and traditional Acadian dishes — along with the homemade desserts — have earned the restaurant a loyal following on the Cabot Trail.
For the Friday and Saturday stretch, the Hermine Ford exhibition is still running at the ICCA Arts Centre, and a drive up to Pleasant Bay for lunch at Rusty Anchor Restaurant makes for a scenic half-day on the northern Cabot Trail. Fresh lobster rolls and fish and chips with stunning water views are hard to argue with. Back in Chéticamp, Aucoin Bakery — a three-generation Acadian institution famous for meat pies and crusty bread — is the right place to pick up provisions before heading to the Fishing Cove Trail for the weekend. The long descent to the only wilderness campground in Cape Breton Highlands National Park rewards those who make the effort with a remote beach that feels genuinely far from the rest of the world.
🥾 Worth the drive
Fishing Cove Trail
Fishing Cove drops nearly 335 metres over eight kilometres to a hidden cove that was once home to a small Scottish fishing settlement. The trail is steep in spots but well graded, weaving through hardwood and conifer stands before delivering hikers to a grassy meadow above a wild Gulf of St. Lawrence beach. Eight backcountry tent sites sit just back from the shore—reservations are required. Day-trippers should plan a full day for the return climb. Carry plenty of water and watch for moose along the upper section.
What you'll see
- A grassy meadow on a hidden cove with a wild Gulf shoreline at its mouth.
- The foundations of an abandoned Scottish fishing settlement.
- Dense hardwood and conifer forest along the descent, with brilliant fall colour.
- Moose along the upper trail at dusk and dawn — keep your distance.
- Bald eagles, peregrines, and the occasional whale offshore.
- Eight Parks Canada backcountry tent sites tucked into the meadow above the beach.
On the trail
- About 16 km round trip via the longer route, or 12 km via the steeper direct route.
- About 335 metres of climb on the return — the back-out is the hard part.
- Well-graded and well-marked, but steep in places.
- Allow at least six hours for the round trip; longer if you swim or have lunch.
- Watch for moose; do not approach.
What to bring
- Real hiking boots and trekking poles.
- Plenty of water — at least three litres per person; the only safe source is the brook at the cove (and even that needs filtering).
- A bear-bag system if you camp; food storage is your responsibility.
- A swim suit and quick-dry towel — the cove begs for a dip.
- Bug spray and a light layer for the breezy meadow.
- A reservation through the Parks Canada system if you plan to camp.
Park & access
- Two trailheads on the Cabot Trail north of Pleasant Bay; both signed.
- Parks Canada day pass required for hiking; backcountry permit additional for camping.
- Vault toilets at the trailheads and at the cove.
- Open seasonally — typically late spring through mid-autumn.
Combine it with
- A whale-watching boat from Pleasant Bay before or after.
- The Whale Interpretive Centre in Pleasant Bay.
- The Skyline Trail for a different highlands experience the next day.
Acadian Trail
Starting right behind the Cheticamp Visitor Centre, the Acadian Trail loops up the canyon wall through mature maple and birch forest, gaining roughly 360 metres before levelling out at a series of viewpoints over the village, harbour, and Cheticamp Island. The climb is sustained and rocky in places; trekking poles help on the descent. Interpretive panels along the route highlight the Acadian heritage of the surrounding communities. Allow three to four hours and carry water—there is no reliable source on the trail.
What you'll see
- A series of viewpoints overlooking Cheticamp village, the harbour, and Cheticamp Island with the Enragée Point Lighthouse just visible.
- Mature hardwood forest — yellow birch and sugar maple, with brilliant fall colour.
- Interpretive panels on Acadian heritage of the surrounding villages.
- Bald eagles wheeling overhead and the occasional whale offshore.
- A view down to the church steeple in Cheticamp — the postcard shot of the village.
On the trail
- 8.4 km loop with about 360 metres of climb.
- Sustained ascent on the way up; gentler grade on the descent.
- Surface is packed dirt with rocks and exposed roots; can be slick when wet.
- Trail is well-signed and well-maintained.
- Allow three to four hours.
What to bring
- Real hiking shoes or boots.
- Trekking poles for the descent — your knees will thank you.
- At least 1.5 litres of water; no reliable source on the trail.
- A light wind layer for the open viewpoints.
- Bug spray in early summer.
- A camera for the village views.
Park & access
- Trailhead is right behind the Cheticamp Visitor Centre.
- Parks Canada day pass required.
- Flush toilets and water at the visitor centre.
- Open year-round, though winter is unmaintained.
Combine it with
- A meal in Cheticamp village — chowder, lobster rolls, and the famous Acadian meat pies.
- Les Trois Pignons cultural centre in Cheticamp.
- Enragée Point Lighthouse on Cheticamp Island.
Enragée Point Lighthouse
Enragée Point Lighthouse stands on the western tip of Cheticamp Island, an octagonal wooden tower painted bright white. A gravel road and short walk lead out to the point, with sweeping views back to the Cheticamp village waterfront and west to the open Gulf. Wind here is often fierce, as the name (French for "enraged") suggests.
What to see
- A handsome octagonal wooden lighthouse, painted bright white, in a wide-open clifftop setting.
- Long views east back to the Cheticamp church and waterfront, framed by the highlands rising behind.
- Open Gulf horizon to the west — Magdalen Islands visible on the clearest days.
- Pilot whales and fin whales offshore in summer; bald eagles overhead.
- The Cheticamp Island gypsum-cliff coastline running south from the light.
Tips
- Bring a serious wind layer — the name is not a joke.
- Best light is morning for the lighthouse against the headland.
- Stay back from the cliff edges; the rock is undermined in places.
- The access road is gravel and bumpy but passable in any car.
- A great sunset spot when the wind allows you to stand still.
Park & access
- Reached by Cheticamp Island Road off the Cabot Trail just south of Cheticamp village.
- The final approach is a short walk from the parking area.
- Free; year-round access.
- No facilities on site.
Combine it with
- The Acadian Trail above Cheticamp for a longer afternoon hike.
- Les Trois Pignons or the Cheticamp hooked-rug museum for an Acadian cultural stop.
- A seafood meal on the Cheticamp waterfront — chowder and crab cakes are standard.
MacIntosh Brook Trail
MacIntosh Brook is a gentle 1.7-kilometre return walk along a clear stream beneath towering yellow birch and sugar maple to a modest cascade at the trail's end. It is a great wet-weather option since the canopy keeps much of the rain off. Roots and rocks make the footing uneven; sturdy shoes recommended.
What you'll see
- A clear, fast-running stream tumbling through hardwood forest.
- Towering yellow birch and sugar maple, some impressively old.
- A small but lovely cascade at the trail's end, perfect for a quiet pause.
- Wood thrushes, hermit thrushes, and other forest songbirds in summer.
- Brilliant fall colour from late September.
On the trail
- 1.7 km return on packed dirt with roots and small rock crossings.
- Very modest elevation change.
- Two small bridges and a few stepping-stone crossings.
- Well-signed and easy to follow.
What to bring
- Sturdy walking shoes; the roots make sneakers slick when wet.
- Bug spray in early summer.
- A light rain layer — the canopy is good but not perfect.
- Water and a snack.
Park & access
- Trailhead lot is on the Cabot Trail just south of the Lone Shieling, in the Grande Anse Valley.
- Parks Canada day pass required.
- Vault toilets at the trailhead.
- Open year-round, though winter access is unmaintained.
Combine it with
- Lone Shieling Trail just up the road for a second short walk.
- Beulach Ban Falls a short drive north.
- A meal in Pleasant Bay before or after.
🍽️ Where to eat & stay
Le Gabriel Restaurant & Lounge
Le Gabriel, with its unique lighthouse entrance, is situated on the Cabot Trail in Cheticamp. Our varied menu includes fresh seafood such as lobster, crab, sole. Experience Acadian culture with traditional dishes, fricot, and paté à la viande. Complete your meal with a selection from our delicious homemade desserts.
Doryman Pub & Grill
Chéticamp's social hub — Acadian fiddle, hearty pub plates, and a lobster roll that's worth a detour. The Doryman is more than a music venue; it's the room everyone in town ends up at on a Saturday.
What to expect
- A casual pub vibe with a strong music focus
- Mixed crowd of locals, RVers, and Cabot Trail visitors
- Standard pub plates with seafood specials
- Live music multiple days a week in season
Don't miss
- The lobster roll, packed and not stretched with filler
- House chowder and fresh haddock when it's running
- An evening with a fiddler and a Cape Breton beer
Good to know
- Hours expand significantly in summer; call ahead in shoulder season
- Cover charge applies for the ceilidh
- Family-friendly until later in the night
- Parking on the street and nearby lots
Pair it with
- A whale-watching trip from the wharf
- A walk through the Coopérative Artisanale
- Dinner at Restaurant Acadien earlier in the day
Aucoin Bakery
A three-generation Acadian bakery in Chéticamp turning out meat pies, crusty bread, and sweets the way the Aucoin family has always made them. If you're driving the Cabot Trail and want a taste of Acadian home cooking you can eat with your hands, this is the stop.
What to expect
- Small bakery counter, not a sit-down restaurant — most folks grab and go
- Glass cases of pies, turnovers, donuts, and loaves of crusty French bread
- A line out the door on summer mornings; locals on first-name terms with the staff
- Acadian French and English both spoken at the counter
Don't miss
- The pork pies (tourtière-style) — the thing they're known for
- Date squares and butter tarts for the road
- A loaf of crusty bread to pair with a chowder later that night
Good to know
- Cash is appreciated; bring small bills
- Best to arrive early — popular items sell out by mid-afternoon
- Limited parking; the lot fills fast in July and August
- Closed Sundays in shoulder season — call ahead outside summer
Pair it with
- The Skyline Trail, 30 minutes north in Cape Breton Highlands National Park
- Coopérative Artisanale de Chéticamp for hooked rugs and Acadian crafts
- A whale-watching trip with Whale Cruisers from the Chéticamp wharf
L’abri Café, Restaurant and Bar
L’abri café, restaurant and bar is located along the Cabot Trail in Chéticamp, NS. We serve homemade food and fresh baked goods to go with our deliciously brewed lattes, cappuccinos, and coffee! Come check out our patio and our local brews on tap.
Rusty Anchor Restaurant
The Rusty Anchor is Cape Breton’s best kept secret!The halfway point on the Cabot Trail, serving the best lobster roll and fish n chips in the area. Come for the food and stay for the view!
Chéticamp and the Margaree Valley offer exactly this kind of week: art that roots itself in place, skies worth staying up for, and Acadian traditions that feel as alive as ever. Come for the Perseids, stay for everything else.