Autumn arrives in full colour on The Cabot Trail (Scenic Drive) this week, with the highlands shifting to gold and amber just in time for the Cabot Trail Writers Festival — three days of readings, authors, and workshops anchored across St. Ann's beginning Friday, September 25.
Guided mountain bike rides run Monday mornings at 10:00 from August through November, meeting at the Mary Ann Falls trailhead parking off the Cabot Trail in Ingonish. The intermediate to advanced route climbs to Mary Ann Falls with a stop for swimming and short hikes, taking 2 to 3 hours total. Non-members pay a one-time $12 fee; rides are free for Velo Cape Breton members. Contact Evan Ferguson at [email protected] or 902-682-7896 for details.
Enjoy an evening of live music featuring local musicians and special guests.
Group bike ride departing Periwinkle Cafe in Ingonish at 9 am every Thursday starting June 11, 2026. The 20 km casual route follows the S2 path to Lakies Head and back, taking 1-2 hours at 15 km/h, with the group staying together throughout. Riders end with coffee at the cafe.
Guided mountain bike rides run Thursdays at 10 a.m. from September 3 to November at the Clyburn trailhead parking off the Cabot Trail in Ingonish Centre. The 2-hour ride follows the Clyburn River on terrain suitable for beginner to intermediate cyclists, though some sections are challenging due to washouts; riders can turn back at Salmon Pools or continue to Gold Mines (advanced skills required beyond Salmon Pools). Non-Velo members pay a one-time $12 membership fee, rides are free for members. Contact Evan Ferguson at [email protected] or 902-682-7896.
Library staff lead a weekly story time and craft activity for preschool-age children and their caregivers on Friday mornings at 10am.
Drop-in Lego building activity for children 4 and up, held Friday afternoons at Ingonish Library. Children 8 and younger need a parent, guardian, or caregiver present in the library.
Literary weekend in St. Ann's bringing together Atlantic Canadian authors, poets and storytellers for readings, salon-style conversations and writing workshops.
Intimate format — readings in church halls, conversations on porches. Crowd of writers and readers, very welcoming to first-timers.
The Saturday-night feature reading. The morning workshops. The bookseller table with festival-only signings.
Festival pass or single tickets. Stay at the Lobster Galley area or Ingonish (15 min). Book early — accommodation is tight in St. Ann's.
Quiet, generous, and steeped in the same landscape that has shaped the literature it celebrates.
A September week on the Cabot Trail deserves an early start. Kick things off Monday morning with the Guided Mountain Bike Rides- Mary Ann Falls, departing the Mary Ann Falls trailhead in Ingonish at 10:00 a.m. The guided ride threads through the highlands as the leaves begin their turn, and the falls themselves reward the effort. Fuel up beforehand at Salty Rose's & The Periwinkle Café in Ingonish, where locally sourced coffee and handmade teas pair well with garden views on a cool September morning.
Tuesday evening brings Live Music at Smokey at The Cape Restaurant & Lodge starting at 7:00 p.m., with local musicians and special guests taking the stage. It's a relaxed midweek moment worth building the evening around. Before the show, the clifftop dining room at The Chowder House in Neil's Harbour is a fitting stop for fresh local seafood with ocean views overhead.
Thursday offers two ways to spend the morning on two wheels. The Ingonish Ride is a casual 20-kilometre group pedal departing Salty Rose's & The Periwinkle Café at 9:00 a.m. at a sociable 15 km/h pace — ideal for riders who want company without the pressure. An hour later, the Guided Mountain Bike Rides – Clyburn Trail departs from Clyburn Trail near Ingonish Centre for a more structured guided experience running through to November. After all that effort, Seagull Restaurant in Ingonish delivers homemade seafood, pasta, and deck views that make recovery feel easy.
Friday is a rich day for families and literary-minded visitors alike. The Ingonish Library hosts Story Time/ Craft for Tots at 10:00 a.m. for children not yet in school, followed by Lego Fun Fridays at 2:00 p.m. for ages four and up. Meanwhile, the Cabot Trail Writers Festival opens its three-day run at 3:00 p.m. across St. Ann's venues — a gathering of authors, readings, and workshops that draws visitors from across the Maritimes.
For those pushing north toward the island's far reaches, a detour to White Point Lookout delivers end-of-the-road Atlantic views past Smelt Brook and South Harbour, while Salmon River Beach offers a quiet pebble cove where the river meets the Gulf on the road to Meat Cove. Meat Cove Campground at Cape Breton's northernmost tip — surrounded by cliffs and bald eagles, with cabins and a seafood food truck on-site — is the kind of place that turns a night's stay into the memory of the whole trip. Halfway back toward Baddeck, Clucking Hen Café & Bakery on the Cabot Trail serves breakfast, lunch, dinner, and homemade baked goods that make the long drive feel like part of the pleasure.
The Cabot Trail loops around the northern tip of Cape Breton Island, through Cape Breton Highlands National Park, French Acadian villages, Mi'kmaq communities, and over six mountain passes. Allow at least two days to drive it properly — three is better.
A quiet headland at the northeast tip of Cape Breton with one of the most overlooked views on the island. The drive in passes Smelt Brook and South Harbour and ends in a small parking area on the bare cliffs.
A small, sheltered beach a few kilometres before Meat Cove village. The Salmon River drops out of the Highlands here and meets the Gulf in a calm cove that's good for a wade on a hot day. Hardly anyone stops, which is part of the charm.
Mostly smooth round stones, with patches of sand near the river mouth. The water near the river is brackish and a touch warmer than the open Gulf.
A working lighthouse on the very tip of Cape Breton's north shore, north of Bay St. Lawrence. The point gets its name from old stories of doubloons washing up after Spanish galleons foundered on the cliffs. Reaching it requires a short hike from the end of the gravel access road.
Meat Cove, the most northern tip of Cape Breton Island, is surrounded by jagged cliffs, valleys of connected mountains where bald eagles soar above. Here, you will find yourself surrounded by magnificent views from each of our 30 unserviced campsites that come with a picnic table, fire pit, and grill along with space available for the RV traveler. Campsites are on a “first come, first served” basis – call ahead to check if we have availability, day of. Amenities at the campground include: washrooms with flush toilets and hot showers WiFi access to fresh drinking water kayak rentals hiking and biking trails firewood food truck Wilderness Cabins We also have six wilderness camp cabins, each with one single and one double bed (bring own bedding/pillows). There is solar power in the cabins for charging your devices. Washroom and shower facilities are located nearby. Miles From Nowhere Chalet Guesthouse Book your stay in Meat Cove Campground’s cottage, Miles From Nowhere, a three bedroom, one bathroom chalet guesthouse comes complete with a full kitchen, bathroom, and laundry facilities along with a private patio and hot tub offering up those amazing ocean views. On-site Food Truck Don’t miss a seafood feast at our Lawless Lobster Seafood Trailer in the campground. Serving up favourites including mussels, lobster rolls, fish & chips, and seafood chowder and more, be sure to bring your appetite!
The Chowder House is a hidden gem on the Cabot Trail. Located at the top of a cliff overlooking the ocean, with spectacular scenery. It is a place where visitors and locals alike can dine on the freshest of seafood. From the freshly caught local lobster, crab, and mussels, to steamy bowls of chowder, a treat for all. With the terrific service and friendly atmosphere, it is the place to visit on your next trip to Neil’s Harbour.
Foodies and nature lovers know Salty Rose’s & the Periwinkle Café is a must-visit destination for a unique and delicious dining experience. This cozy café, situated on the scenic Cabot Trail, offers a diverse menu featuring fresh, locally sourced coffee, handmade teas, specialty lemonades that will tantalize your taste buds and leave you craving more. Your dining experience is a feast for the eyes as well, with indoor and outdoor seating, garden views, and light and welcoming environment. Still wanting more? They offer unique features, such as on-site gift shop, handmade jewellery and features local artists and artisans. The also host live music and specialty dining events, making Salty Rose’s & the Periwinkle Café the perfect spot for a brunch, a date night, or a fun night out with friends. Salty Rose’s & the Periwinkle Café now offers overnight accommodations with beautiful and bright flower themed rooms! Don’t miss out on this hidden gem and book your next stay or dining experience today for a mouth-watering culinary adventure amidst stunning natural beauty.
Located on the Cabot Trail in Ingonish, Seagull Restaurant boasts fabulous views of the ocean. Specializing in home cooked meals and family dining Seagull Restaurant is a popular choice for locals and visitors alike. Come sit on our deck and enjoy our Spectacular View of the ocean. Stop in to Enjoy our Seafood & Pasta Dishes; New Healthier Choice Menu, along with our Kids Menu and well known Homemade Deserts. Eat in or take out. “Great Food, Great Service”
Located half way between Baddeck and Ingonish. Open daily from mid May until the end of October. Serving Breakfast, lunch and Dinner, licensed serving beer, wine, and lots of homemade baked goodies.
A great small town pizza shop. Pizza, Custom Subs, Wings, Donairs, Poutine, Fries, Wraps, Salads, Pizza Burgers, Cold Drinks, Mozza Sticks, Panko Onion Rings.
September on the Cabot Trail is the season the highlands were made for — warm enough to ride, cool enough to linger over a bowl of chowder, and lit by a palette that no other month can match. Come for a day and find reasons to stay the week.
Around Cape Breton
More news →