The last week of May on The Cabot Trail (Scenic Drive) delivers a full moon ceremony at the water's edge and a collaborative brush-to-canvas afternoon at a highland waterfall — a fitting send-off to spring. On Sunday evening, Grand Mother Moon at Still Brook Falls with Mary Louise Bernard gathers visitors at Black Brook Beach for an Indigenous ceremony honouring women's teachings under the rising full moon.
Plein air painting session at Beulach Ban Falls from 12–2 p.m. with artist Emily Madinsky. Visitors can watch her paint the landscape and add their own brushstroke to a shared canvas; the finished piece will be shared on social media. No art experience required.
A Mi'kmaw ceremony honouring Grandmother Moon led by Mary Louise Bernard at Still Brook Falls. The gathering, part of Waterfall Season, explores women's teachings, the full moon, and connections between water and Mi'kmaw traditions. Sunday, May 31, 2026 at Black Brook Beach, Ingonish.
Buddy MacDonald is a celebrated Cape Breton singer-songwriter from the North Shore of the island, entertaining audiences for over 45 years with his warm blend of Celtic roots and storytelling. He is a 2022 East Coast Music Association Stompin' Tom Award winner, and his iconic song "Getting Dark Again" was inducted into the Cape Breton Music Industry Hall of Fame in 2023. He has performed across Canada, the United States, Scotland, and beyond, sharing stages with Natalie MacMaster, Ashley MacIsaac, and many other Cape Breton greats.
Indigenous ceremony celebrating women's teachings during the full moon, led by Mary Louise Bernard at Black Brook Beach near Still Brook Falls in Cape Breton Highlands National Park.
Start the week on the southern approach to the highlands, pausing at Clucking Hen Café & Bakery on the North Shore for a breakfast of homemade baked goods before the road climbs toward the park boundary. If the loop is running clockwise, the Englishtown Ferry (Jersey Cove) cuts 25 km off the drive and adds a few minutes of scenic cable-ferry novelty — a worthwhile detour on a clear morning.
Mid-week, base yourself around Ingonish and use the calm days to cover the trail's eastern headlands. The Middle Head Trail is an easy peninsula walk past the Keltic Lodge to a tern-nesting headland framed by two bays — a short commitment with outsized views. Afterward, the gondola at Cape Smokey Gondola & Adventure Park lifts riders above the treeline for broad Atlantic panoramas; the zipline and mountain bike park are running for those who want more than scenery.
For meals in Ingonish, Coastal Restaurant & Pub is a reliable stop for creative comfort food paired with Cape Breton beers on tap, while Salty Rose's & The Periwinkle Café offers locally sourced coffee, handmade teas, and garden views — a good morning or afternoon reset between hikes.
Saturday is the week's creative centrepiece. At noon, Emily Madinsky leads a plein air painting session at Beulach Ban Falls, where visitors are invited to add brushstrokes to a collaborative canvas — Plein Air Painting at Beulach Ban Falls with Emily Madinsky. The falls setting does much of the artistic heavy lifting. Before or after, Ingonish Beach is a short drive south — its split personality of Atlantic surf on one side and a warm freshwater pond on the other makes it one of the more unusual beaches on the island.
Sunday evening offers two distinct but complementary experiences. At 7 p.m., Buddy MacDonald performs at the Arduaine restaurant inside the Keltic Lodge — Keltic Lodge-the Arduaine restaurant — Buddy MacDonald — pairing Cape Breton traditional music with dinner on one of the trail's great headlands. Later, the full moon rises over Black Brook Beach, where Mary Louise Bernard leads an Indigenous ceremony celebrating women's teachings at the water's edge — Grand Mother Moon at Still Brook Falls with Mary Louise Bernard. An earlier ceremony at Still Brook Falls inside Cape Breton Highlands National Park, Grandmother Moon: Cape Breton Island Waterfall Season Event, provides another point of gathering for those wishing to observe the tradition.
Black Brook is a sheltered crescent of coarse sand and pebbles framed by pink granite headlands. A small freshwater waterfall drops onto the eastern end of the beach, a favourite photo spot. The cove is the southern terminus of the Coastal Trail, so a beach day can easily be combined with a short shoreline walk. Waves can be lively; supervision recommended for children.
The Cabot Trail loops around the northern tip of Cape Breton Island, through Cape Breton Highlands National Park, French Acadian villages, Mi'kmaq communities, and over six mountain passes. Allow at least two days to drive it properly — three is better.
Middle Head juts a kilometre and a half into the Atlantic between South and North Bay Ingonish, ending in a rocky tip where common and Arctic terns nest each summer. The trail begins behind the historic Keltic Lodge and follows a wide, mostly flat path through spruce woods with frequent ocean overlooks. It is one of the best places in the park for a sunrise walk and is popular with families. The final approach to the tip is closed during seabird nesting season in late spring.
Ingonish Beach is a slim sandbar that separates the cold Atlantic from the warm waters of Freshwater Lake. Swimmers can choose ocean waves on the seaward side or bath-warm freshwater on the lake side just metres away. The beach is supervised in summer and has a full bathhouse. The trailhead for the easy Freshwater Lake Look-Off is right next door.
Year-round gondola, zipline, and mountain bike park on the cliffs above Ingonish Ferry. The gondola alone is worth the stop — eight minutes up to a 360-degree view of the Atlantic, the Highlands, and Ingonish Beach far below.
A casual Cabot Trail pub at Ingonish Beach with comfort food that punches above its weight and a tap list that takes Cape Breton beer seriously. The pick for dinner if you're staying in the Ingonish area and want something better than typical roadside fare.
Foodies and nature lovers know Salty Rose’s & the Periwinkle Café is a must-visit destination for a unique and delicious dining experience. This cozy café, situated on the scenic Cabot Trail, offers a diverse menu featuring fresh, locally sourced coffee, handmade teas, specialty lemonades that will tantalize your taste buds and leave you craving more. Your dining experience is a feast for the eyes as well, with indoor and outdoor seating, garden views, and light and welcoming environment. Still wanting more? They offer unique features, such as on-site gift shop, handmade jewellery and features local artists and artisans. The also host live music and specialty dining events, making Salty Rose’s & the Periwinkle Café the perfect spot for a brunch, a date night, or a fun night out with friends. Salty Rose’s & the Periwinkle Café now offers overnight accommodations with beautiful and bright flower themed rooms! Don’t miss out on this hidden gem and book your next stay or dining experience today for a mouth-watering culinary adventure amidst stunning natural beauty.
Located half way between Baddeck and Ingonish. Open daily from mid May until the end of October. Serving Breakfast, lunch and Dinner, licensed serving beer, wine, and lots of homemade baked goodies.
The Englishtown Ferry is a short, government-operated cable ferry across St. Anns Bay between Jersey Cove and Englishtown. The crossing takes about three minutes and the boat fits roughly a dozen vehicles per trip.
Taking the ferry instead of driving around the head of the bay saves roughly 25 km and 30 minutes on the Cabot Trail. Cars pay a small toll (around $7 each way at last update) — exact change or tap card, no reservations.
The ferry runs year-round, generally early morning until late evening, on demand rather than fixed schedule. Operations pause briefly for shift changes and during severe weather. Check the Nova Scotia 511 service for live status before you commit to the route.
Cape Breton's only ski hill, with a reborn lift system and a year-round gondola for big Atlantic views. Smokey is a small mountain by Western standards but the vertical is real, and skiing with the ocean in your face is an experience you don't get many places.
The Cabot Trail at the turn of June carries the particular energy of a season fully arrived — waterfalls running strong, daylight long into the evening, and a full moon to close the week. It's a fine time to make the drive.
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