The Markland Lobby — entertainment in the lobby with Bruce Courtney, Norman MacDonald, and Deron D…
entertainment in the lobby with Bruce Courtney, Norman MacDonald, and Deron Donovan.
Cabot Trail Live: What to Do July 6–12, 2026
The northern Highlands are in full summer swing this week, with nightly live music anchoring two of the Cabot Trail's most atmospheric venues. The Markland Lobby — entertainment with Bruce Courtney, Norman MacDonald, and Deron Donovan kicks things off Monday at 7:00 p.m., while Allie Bennett at the Keltic Lodge's Arduaine Restaurant sets the tone for a week of excellent Cape Breton sound.
🎵 Live this week
Keltic Lodge-the Arduaine restaurant — Allie Bennett
Allie Bennett is a Cape Breton-born fiddler, guitarist, and bassist from Sydney Mines, Nova Scotia, who received the East Coast Music Association's Musicians Achievement Award in 2005. A prolific studio musician with over 150 album projects to his credit, he has performed alongside celebrated East Coast artists including Rita MacNeil, Natalie MacMaster, The Rankin Family, and The Barra MacNeils. He has also served as Musical Director for the East Coast Music Awards, making him one of Atlantic Canada's most respected and versatile Celtic musicians.
Keltic Lodge-the Arduaine restaurant — Steve Maclntyre
Steve MacIntyre is a singer-songwriter from Port Hawkesbury, Cape Breton, who has been entertaining audiences across Nova Scotia for over 25 years. He performs heartfelt original songs rooted in East Coast storytelling and has appeared at celebrated events like the Celtic Colours International Festival. A Music Nova Scotia Award nominee, he brings warmth and authenticity to every stage he graces.
The Markland Lobby — entertainment in the lobby with Bruce Courtney, Norman MacDonald, and Deron D…
entertainment in the lobby with Bruce Courtney, Norman MacDonald, and Deron Donovan.
The Markland Lobby — entertainment in the lobby with Bruce Courtney, Norman MacDonald, and Deron D…
entertainment in the lobby with Bruce Courtney, Norman MacDonald, and Deron Donovan.
Keltic Lodge-the Arduaine restaurant — Steve Maclntyre
Steve MacIntyre is a singer-songwriter from Port Hawkesbury, Cape Breton, who has been entertaining audiences across Nova Scotia for over 25 years. He performs heartfelt original songs rooted in East Coast storytelling and has appeared at celebrated events like the Celtic Colours International Festival. A Music Nova Scotia Award nominee, he brings warmth and authenticity to every stage he graces.
The Markland Lobby — entertainment in the lobby with Bruce Courtney, Norman MacDonald, and Deron D…
entertainment in the lobby with Bruce Courtney, Norman MacDonald, and Deron Donovan.
Keltic Lodge-the Arduaine restaurant — Steve Maclntyre
Steve MacIntyre is a singer-songwriter from Port Hawkesbury, Cape Breton, who has been entertaining audiences across Nova Scotia for over 25 years. He performs heartfelt original songs rooted in East Coast storytelling and has appeared at celebrated events like the Celtic Colours International Festival. A Music Nova Scotia Award nominee, he brings warmth and authenticity to every stage he graces.
📍 Suggested itinerary
A summer week on the Cabot Trail rewards those who take it slowly. Begin Monday morning with a sunrise stroll to Ingonish Beach, where a remarkable natural quirk offers Atlantic surf on one side and a warm freshwater pond on the other — two very different swims within a few hundred metres of each other. Fuel up beforehand at Salty Rose's & The Periwinkle Café in Ingonish, a cozy spot serving locally sourced coffee and handmade teas with garden views. Come evening, settle into the lobby of the Markland for the week's opening night of music, where Bruce Courtney, Norman MacDonald, and Deron Donovan perform at 7:00 p.m.
Tuesday is a good day to point the car north and make the full highland loop. Drivers heading around the northern tip can trim 25 kilometres off the return journey by catching the Englishtown Ferry — a tiny provincial cable ferry that crosses the narrows at Jersey Cove and adds a quietly memorable few minutes to the drive. On the way back south, stop at the Clucking Hen Café & Bakery on the North Shore, a licensed café roughly midway between Baddeck and Ingonish that serves breakfast, lunch, dinner, and homemade baked goods. That evening, Steve MacIntyre plays the Arduaine Restaurant at Keltic Lodge at 7:00 p.m., and he returns Wednesday and Thursday nights as well — worth catching more than once.
Wednesday morning, lace up for the Middle Head Trail, an easy peninsula walk that passes the Keltic Lodge and ends at a tern-nesting headland poised between two bays. The trail is short enough to complete before lunch and rewards walkers with open ocean views that feel disproportionate to the effort. Afterwards, head to Black Brook Beach for the afternoon — a sheltered cove where a small waterfall spills onto pink granite sand, one of the quieter and more photogenic spots along the entire 298-kilometre loop. Back at the Markland that evening, Bruce Courtney, Norman MacDonald, and Deron Donovan take the lobby stage again at 7:00 p.m.
For Thursday, consider riding the gondola at Cape Smokey Gondola & Adventure Park in Ingonish Ferry before the afternoon crowds arrive. The year-round gondola lifts visitors above the treeline for sweeping Atlantic views, and the adjacent zipline and mountain bike park add options for those who want to extend the adrenaline. Wind down the day with dinner at Coastal Restaurant & Pub in Ingonish Beach — casual Cabot Trail pub fare with Cape Breton beers on tap — before catching Steve MacIntyre's final night at the Arduaine or the Thursday lobby session at the Markland to close out the week.
🥾 Worth the drive
The Cabot Trail (Scenic Drive)
The Cabot Trail loops around the northern tip of Cape Breton Island, through Cape Breton Highlands National Park, French Acadian villages, Mi'kmaq communities, and over six mountain passes. Allow at least two days to drive it properly — three is better.
What you'll see
- Six named mountain climbs — Smokey, North, MacKenzie, French, Hunters, and Kelly's — each with its own pull-offs and personality.
- Acadian Cheticamp with its towering church spire, the Mi'kmaw community of Wagmatcook, and Gaelic-speaking villages along St. Anns Bay.
- Pilot whales offshore in summer, moose browsing the shoulders at dusk, and bald eagles riding the updrafts above the escarpment.
- Fall colour from late September through mid-October that ranks among the best in eastern North America.
On the drive
- Counter-clockwise (Baddeck to Cheticamp first) keeps you on the inside lane on the steepest grades — easier on nervous passengers.
- Clockwise puts you on the cliff side with the best ocean views from the driver's seat.
- Speed limits drop to 50 km/h on the climbs and the road switches back tightly — give yourself twice the time Google estimates.
- Cell service drops out for long stretches between Pleasant Bay and Cape North; download offline maps before leaving Baddeck.
- Fuel up in Cheticamp, Pleasant Bay, or Ingonish; the gaps between gas stations on the loop's north end are real.
What to bring
- Layers — temperatures on the highlands plateau can be 10 degrees cooler than at sea level.
- Real camera or a recent phone with a wide-angle lens; some pull-offs deserve more than a quick snap.
- A picnic — pull-offs at MacKenzie Mountain and Cape Smokey beat any restaurant for ambience.
- Binoculars for whales (try Pleasant Bay), eagles (everywhere), and the Bird Islands viewpoint near Big Bras d'Or.
Combine it with
- Skyline Trail at French Mountain — easily the loop's signature short hike.
- A whale-watching boat from Pleasant Bay or Bay St. Lawrence.
- A square-set Saturday-night ceilidh in Mabou or Judique on the Ceilidh Trail leg.
Ingonish Beach
Ingonish Beach is a slim sandbar that separates the cold Atlantic from the warm waters of Freshwater Lake. Swimmers can choose ocean waves on the seaward side or bath-warm freshwater on the lake side just metres away. The beach is supervised in summer and has a full bathhouse. The trailhead for the easy Freshwater Lake Look-Off is right next door.
What it's like
- A natural sandbar with two completely different swims a stone's throw apart — bracing surf on the ocean side, lake-warm freshwater on the lagoon side.
- Sand on the lake side is darker and finer; the ocean side is coarser with the occasional polished pebble.
- Surf can be lively; check the lifeguard flags before heading out past your knees.
- Cape Smokey rises to the south, framing some of the best beach views on the entire loop.
Facilities
- Full Parks Canada bathhouse with change rooms, flush toilets, and outdoor rinse showers.
- Lifeguards on duty during peak summer hours on the ocean side.
- Picnic tables and grills among the dunes.
- Wheelchair-accessible boardwalk to a beach overlook; a beach wheelchair can be reserved through the visitor centre.
Best at
- Mid-afternoon when the lake water has warmed in the sun.
- Sunrise from the south end with Cape Smokey behind you and Middle Head to the north.
- Late August into early September when crowds thin and the water is at its warmest.
Park & access
- Park entry requires a Parks Canada day pass, sold at the booth on entry or at the Cheticamp/Ingonish visitor centres.
- Large paved lot directly behind the dunes — rarely fills.
- Closed in winter; the bathhouse opens around late June.
Combine it with
- The easy Freshwater Lake Look-Off loop next door for a 20-minute leg-stretch with a postcard view.
- Middle Head Trail just down the road for a cliff-top walk before or after a swim.
- Dinner at the Keltic Lodge dining room or chowder at the Coastal Restaurant a few minutes away.
Middle Head Trail
Middle Head juts a kilometre and a half into the Atlantic between South and North Bay Ingonish, ending in a rocky tip where common and Arctic terns nest each summer. The trail begins behind the historic Keltic Lodge and follows a wide, mostly flat path through spruce woods with frequent ocean overlooks. It is one of the best places in the park for a sunrise walk and is popular with families. The final approach to the tip is closed during seabird nesting season in late spring.
What you'll see
- Big-sky views in both directions — Cape Smokey to the south, Franey and the highlands plateau to the west, and the open Atlantic at the tip.
- Tern colonies wheeling and screaming above the rocks at the headland.
- Sea ducks, gannets, and the occasional seal or whale offshore.
- Storm-pruned spruce, krummholz, and patches of berry bushes that flare crimson in autumn.
On the trail
- 3.8 km return, mostly flat with a short steeper drop to the tip.
- Wide, well-packed gravel surface for the first kilometre, narrowing to roots and rock toward the end.
- Two named branch viewpoints — north overlook and south overlook — are clearly signed.
- The final spur to the tip is fenced off during tern nesting (typically late May through July) — respect the closures.
What to bring
- Sturdy runners or light hikers — sneakers are fine in dry weather.
- A windbreaker; the headland is exposed even on warm days.
- Water and a snack if you plan to linger at the tip.
- Binoculars for the seabird colonies and offshore whales.
Park & access
- Trailhead parking is at the end of the Keltic Lodge driveway, past the resort buildings.
- Lot fills by 10 a.m. on summer weekends — go early or late.
- Parks Canada day pass required.
- Vault toilet at the trailhead; nothing on the trail itself.
Combine it with
- A coffee or lunch at the Keltic Lodge after your hike.
- Ingonish Beach a short drive away for a swim in either ocean or lake.
- The Freshwater Lake Look-Off across the road for an easy second outing.
Black Brook Beach
Black Brook is a sheltered crescent of coarse sand and pebbles framed by pink granite headlands. A small freshwater waterfall drops onto the eastern end of the beach, a favourite photo spot. The cove is the southern terminus of the Coastal Trail, so a beach day can easily be combined with a short shoreline walk. Waves can be lively; supervision recommended for children.
What it's like
- A small, scenic crescent framed by pink granite headlands and dotted with smooth cobble and coarse sand.
- A modest freshwater waterfall that drops onto the eastern end of the beach — endlessly photographable.
- Cool Atlantic water; surf can be lively on a stiff onshore breeze.
- A natural sheltered swim on calm days, framed by classic Cape Breton coastline.
Facilities
- Vault toilets and picnic tables in the parking area.
- No lifeguards.
- A short paved access path to the upper beach overlook.
- A small change shelter.
Best at
- Calm summer afternoons for swimming.
- After a rain for the waterfall in best flow.
- Sunrise for soft light on the granite.
Park & access
- Signed lot directly off the Cabot Trail south of Neil's Harbour.
- Parks Canada day pass required.
- Open seasonally; lot is plowed only as far as the gate in winter.
Combine it with
- The Coastal Trail south from the same parking area for a 6 km return walk.
- Neil's Harbour Lighthouse and the Chowder House five minutes north.
- Mary Ann Falls and Broad Cove Mountain Trail nearby.
🍽️ Where to eat & stay
Cape Smokey Gondola & Adventure Park
Year-round gondola, zipline, and mountain bike park on the cliffs above Ingonish Ferry. The gondola alone is worth the stop — eight minutes up to a 360-degree view of the Atlantic, the Highlands, and Ingonish Beach far below.
What to expect
- Modern gondola cabins running summer through ski season
- Top-of-mountain platforms, short walking trails, and a small café
- Zipline and downhill bike park for the more adventurous
- Big crowds on clear days — go early or late
Don't miss
- The summit viewing deck on a blue-sky afternoon
- Sunrise rides, where they offer them
- The zipline run for those with the nerve
Good to know
- Open most of the year; reduced hours in shoulder seasons
- Bring a layer — the summit is noticeably cooler
- Wheelchair access to the gondola and main viewing area
- Ample parking; busy in fall colours
Pair it with
- A swim at Ingonish Beach on a warm day
- Dinner at the Coastal Restaurant & Pub
- A round at Highlands Links if you've got the clubs
Coastal Restaurant & Pub
A casual Cabot Trail pub at Ingonish Beach with comfort food that punches above its weight and a tap list that takes Cape Breton beer seriously. The pick for dinner if you're staying in the Ingonish area and want something better than typical roadside fare.
What to expect
- Bright, modern pub feel with a small patio
- Mix of locals, park staff, and Cabot Trail travellers
- A focused menu — pizzas, fish, pub classics done well
- Live music some evenings in summer
Don't miss
- The seafood chowder and the haddock fish-and-chips
- A scratch pizza with house-made dough
- Local beer from Big Spruce, Breton, or Route 19
Good to know
- Open seasonally; check hours before driving over
- Reservations recommended for groups in peak season
- Family-friendly until later evening
- Parking on site
Pair it with
- A day hike on the Middle Head Trail
- The Cape Smokey Gondola at sunset
- A morning paddle with Eagle North Canoe & Kayak
Clucking Hen Café & Bakery
Located half way between Baddeck and Ingonish. Open daily from mid May until the end of October. Serving Breakfast, lunch and Dinner, licensed serving beer, wine, and lots of homemade baked goodies.
Salty Rose’s & The Periwinkle Café
Foodies and nature lovers know Salty Rose’s & the Periwinkle Café is a must-visit destination for a unique and delicious dining experience. This cozy café, situated on the scenic Cabot Trail, offers a diverse menu featuring fresh, locally sourced coffee, handmade teas, specialty lemonades that will tantalize your taste buds and leave you craving more. Your dining experience is a feast for the eyes as well, with indoor and outdoor seating, garden views, and light and welcoming environment. Still wanting more? They offer unique features, such as on-site gift shop, handmade jewellery and features local artists and artisans. The also host live music and specialty dining events, making Salty Rose’s & the Periwinkle Café the perfect spot for a brunch, a date night, or a fun night out with friends. Salty Rose’s & the Periwinkle Café now offers overnight accommodations with beautiful and bright flower themed rooms! Don’t miss out on this hidden gem and book your next stay or dining experience today for a mouth-watering culinary adventure amidst stunning natural beauty.
Englishtown Ferry (Jersey Cove)
The Englishtown Ferry is a short, government-operated cable ferry across St. Anns Bay between Jersey Cove and Englishtown. The crossing takes about three minutes and the boat fits roughly a dozen vehicles per trip.
Why it matters
Taking the ferry instead of driving around the head of the bay saves roughly 25 km and 30 minutes on the Cabot Trail. Cars pay a small toll (around $7 each way at last update) — exact change or tap card, no reservations.
Hours
The ferry runs year-round, generally early morning until late evening, on demand rather than fixed schedule. Operations pause briefly for shift changes and during severe weather. Check the Nova Scotia 511 service for live status before you commit to the route.
Cape Smokey Holding Ltd. (Ski & Gondola)
Cape Breton's only ski hill, with a reborn lift system and a year-round gondola for big Atlantic views. Smokey is a small mountain by Western standards but the vertical is real, and skiing with the ocean in your face is an experience you don't get many places.
What to expect
- One main lift and a small but legitimate vertical drop
- A handful of marked runs, mostly intermediate, with some steeper terrain
- Day-lodge food and a small rental shop
- Wind from the Atlantic; conditions vary
Don't miss
- A run down with the ocean filling the windshield ahead of you
- Sunset gondola rides outside ski season
- Off-season mountain biking on the lift-served trails
Good to know
- Ski season is short and weather-dependent
- Lessons and rentals available
- Pack warmer than you think — the wind is the wind
- Free parking
Pair it with
- A stay at Castle Rock Country Inn or Keltic Lodge
- Dinner at the Coastal Restaurant & Pub
- A morning paddle with Eagle North in summer
From pink granite coves to nightly live music in landmark lodges, the Cabot Trail in mid-July offers a pace and a beauty that's hard to find anywhere else in Atlantic Canada. Book a few nights, leave the itinerary loose, and let the highlands do the rest.