Begin the week by settling into the rhythm of The Cabot Trail (Scenic Drive), the 298-km loop that has earned its reputation as one of the most celebrated drives in Canada. Whether arriving from the north shore or circling up from Baddeck, a stop at the Clucking Hen Café & Bakery — positioned at a scenic midpoint between Baddeck and Ingonish — makes an ideal first meal: breakfast, fresh-baked goods, and a chance to get oriented before the highlands unfold ahead.
Once in the Ingonish area, the Middle Head Trail offers an accessible peninsula walk past the Keltic Lodge to a tern-nesting headland framed by two bays — a good warm-up for legs that may have been in a car all morning. Afterwards, Ingonish Beach delivers one of Cape Breton's most unusual natural features: Atlantic surf on one side and a warm freshwater pond on the other, side by side on the same stretch of sand. For lunch or a post-swim meal, the Coastal Restaurant & Pub in Ingonish Beach pours Cape Breton beers on tap alongside creative comfort food with a casual, Cabot Trail spirit.
On Wednesday evening, head into Cape Breton Highlands National Park for the star party weekend. The Perseids peak coincides with this event, and the darkness of the highlands amplifies every streak of light crossing the sky. Rangers and astronomy enthusiasts are on hand with telescopes, making it as educational as it is awe-inspiring. Those with an appetite for wilderness hiking might spend Thursday tackling the Polletts Cove Trail, a demanding 16-km route to a roadless meadow-and-beach valley north of the park — genuinely remote and genuinely rewarding.
Friday offers the second major celestial event of the week: the Star Party at Black Brook begins at 8:00 p.m. at Black Brook Beach and Still Brook Falls, where the sound of the ocean provides a backdrop for Perseid watching through telescopes. For those who want to keep the evening going, Trivia Night at The Cape Restaurant & Lodge starts at 10:00 p.m. — a fun team competition that draws locals and visitors alike. Throughout the week, Salty Rose's & The Periwinkle Café in Ingonish is worth a visit for locally sourced coffee, handmade teas, and live music in a garden setting. For a daytime ride with panoramic payoff, the Cape Smokey Gondola & Adventure Park in Ingonish Ferry runs year-round, offering sweeping Atlantic views alongside zipline and mountain bike options.
Sunday afternoon brings a gentle, cultural close to the week with the Artist Reception featuring Eve Stockton at the Markland Lobby, starting at 2:00 p.m. It's an unhurried setting to appreciate original work before heading south. Travelers looping back toward the Trans-Canada can shave 25 km off the return by taking the Englishtown Ferry (Jersey Cove), the tiny provincial cable ferry that crosses St. Ann's Harbour in minutes — a fitting, scenic end to a week on the trail.